Whirlpool Appliance
Repair Service

Fridge not cooling

Failed evaporator fan motor or condenser fan stops airflow — fridge warms while freezer stays cold.

Ice maker not working

Clogged water inlet valve or failed ice maker module — common on WRF series with in-door ice systems.

Frost build-up in freezer

Defrost heater or defrost thermostat failure causes ice to accumulate on evaporator coils and block airflow.

Water pooling under crisper drawer

Blocked defrost drain or cracked drain pan allows meltwater to collect and refreeze at the bottom.

Compressor clicking and not starting

Worn start relay causes the compressor to click rapidly without starting — fridge never reaches set temperature.

Control board error codes

Display faults or sensor errors lock the appliance into a protection cycle — board diagnosis and replacement if needed.

Washer won't drain or spin

Blocked drain pump filter or failed pump motor stops water from evacuating — drum stays full mid-cycle.

Lid switch failure — won't start

Broken lid switch on WTW top-loaders prevents the cycle from starting — washer powers on but does nothing.

F5 E2 / F7 E1 error codes

Door latch fault or motor speed sensor error locks the cycle — common on WFW front-load models.

Door gasket leaking or mouldy

Torn or collapsed bellows seal on front-load models allows water to escape and causes persistent drum odour.

Excessive vibration during spin

Worn shock absorbers or failed suspension rods cause violent movement during high-speed spin cycles.

Water inlet valve failure

Faulty inlet valve prevents the drum from filling or causes continuous water flow when the machine is off.

No heat — clothes still damp

Blown thermal fuse or failed heating element — often triggered by a blocked exhaust vent overheating the unit.

Drum not turning

Worn or snapped drive belt, or failed idler pulley — motor runs but drum stays stationary.

Squealing or thumping noise

Worn drum glides, rear drum bearing or loose drum support rollers cause persistent noise during every cycle.

Moisture sensor not ending cycle

Coated or corroded sensor bars misread dryness — dryer runs too long or cuts off before clothes are dry.

Gas burner ignition failure

Faulty igniter or gas valve coil on WGD gas dryers prevents burner from lighting — dryer tumbles with no heat.

Door switch failure — won't start

Broken door latch microswitch prevents the control board from receiving a door-closed signal.

Not draining — standing water

Blocked sump filter or failed drain pump leaves standing water in the tub after the wash cycle ends.

Dishes not cleaning properly

Clogged spray arm holes or failed wash motor reduces water pressure — upper rack items come out with residue.

Door latch not securing

Worn or broken door latch prevents the cycle from starting — dishwasher powers on but won't run.

Dishes not drying

Failed heating element or vent fan motor leaves dishes wet at the end of the cycle.

F8 E1 / E4 water fill error

Flood sensor or inlet valve fault triggers a fill error and shuts the unit down before damage occurs.

Grinding noise during wash

Debris lodged in the wash pump impeller or worn motor bearings produce noise that escalates with each cycle.

Gas burner won't ignite

Cracked or fouled igniter tip prevents spark — burner clicks continuously without lighting.

Surface element stuck on high

Failed infinite switch locks the coil element at full power regardless of dial position — a burn and fire hazard.

Surface element not heating

Burned-out coil element or broken element connector block stops one or more burners from producing heat.

Control panel unresponsive

Touch control board fault causes display glitches, burners to lock out or all zones to become unresponsive.

Cracked glass cooktop

Thermal shock or impact fractures the ceramic-glass surface — continued use risks electrical exposure.

Gas valve not opening

Faulty gas valve solenoid coil prevents gas flow to the burner even when the igniter is sparking normally.

Oven not reaching temperature

Failed bake or broil element reduces heat output — oven takes too long to preheat or never reaches set temp.

Convection fan not running

Worn convection fan motor or broken blade causes hot spots and uneven baking results.

Door locked after self-clean

Door latch motor or lock switch fault leaves the oven locked after a self-clean cycle completes.

Temperature sensor error (F3)

Open or shorted oven temperature sensor sends incorrect readings — oven overheats, underheats or shuts down.

Control board F2 error

Oven temperature runaway fault — control board detects overheating and shuts the oven down mid-cycle.

Interior light not working

Burned-out bulb or failed light socket board — simple fix that makes monitoring food during baking impossible.