Maytag Appliance
Repair Service

Fridge not cooling

Failed evaporator or condenser fan motor stops airflow — fridge compartment warms while freezer holds temperature.

Ice maker not producing ice

Clogged water inlet valve or failed ice maker module — common on MFI French door models with in-door ice dispensers.

Frost build-up in freezer

Failed defrost heater or thermostat lets ice accumulate on the evaporator coils, blocking airflow and cooling.

Water pooling under crisper drawer

Blocked defrost drain or cracked drain pan causes meltwater to collect and refreeze at the bottom of the fridge.

Compressor clicking and not starting

Worn start relay causes rapid clicking without the compressor engaging — fridge never pulls down to set temperature.

Control board error codes

Sensor or board faults lock the appliance into a protection cycle — diagnosis and replacement carried out same visit.

Washer won't drain or spin

Blocked drain pump filter or failed pump motor stops water from evacuating — drum stays full mid-cycle.

Lid switch failure — won't start

Broken lid switch on MVW top-loaders blocks the cycle from starting — washer powers on but does nothing.

F5 E2 / F8 E1 error codes

Door latch fault or water fill sensor error halts the cycle — common on MHW front-load models.

Door gasket leaking or mouldy

Torn bellows seal on front-load models allows water to escape and causes persistent drum odour.

Agitator not moving

Worn agitator dogs or failed drive coupler on MVW top-loaders stops the agitator from moving clothes through the wash cycle.

Excessive vibration during spin

Worn shock absorbers or failed suspension rods cause violent drum movement during high-speed spin cycles.

No heat — clothes still damp

Blown thermal fuse or failed heating element — often caused by a blocked exhaust vent overheating the unit beyond the fuse limit.

Drum not turning

Worn or snapped drive belt or failed idler pulley — motor runs but drum stays stationary.

Gas burner not igniting

Faulty igniter or gas valve coil on MGD models prevents the burner from lighting — dryer tumbles with no heat.

Squealing or thumping noise

Worn drum glides or support rollers cause persistent noise during every cycle — worsens if left unrepaired.

Moisture sensor not ending cycle

Coated or corroded sensor bars misread dryness — dryer runs too long or cuts off with clothes still damp.

Door switch failure — won't start

Broken door latch microswitch prevents the control board from receiving the door-closed signal, blocking all cycle starts.

Not draining — standing water

Blocked sump filter or failed drain pump leaves standing water in the tub after the wash cycle ends.

Dishes not cleaning properly

Clogged spray arm holes or failed wash motor reduces water pressure — dishes come out with residue even on PowerBlast cycle.

Door latch not securing

Worn or broken door latch prevents the cycle from starting — dishwasher powers on but won't run.

Dishes not drying

Failed heating element or vent fan motor leaves dishes wet at the end of the cycle.

Control panel unresponsive

Main PCB or touchpad failure — buttons register nothing or the unit starts and stops randomly without input.

Grinding noise during wash

Debris lodged in the wash pump impeller or worn motor bearings produce noise that escalates with each cycle.

Gas burner won't ignite

Cracked or fouled igniter tip prevents spark — Power Burner clicks continuously without lighting.

Surface element stuck on high

Failed infinite switch locks the coil element at full power regardless of dial position — a burn and fire hazard.

Surface element not heating

Burned-out coil element or broken element receptacle block stops one or more burners from producing heat.

Control panel error codes

Touch control board fault causes display errors, burner lockouts or all zones becoming unresponsive.

Cracked glass cooktop

Thermal shock or impact fractures the ceramic-glass surface — continued use risks electrical exposure.

Gas valve not opening

Faulty gas valve solenoid coil prevents gas flow to the burner even when the igniter sparks normally.

Oven not reaching temperature

Failed bake or broil element reduces heat output — oven takes too long to preheat or never reaches the target temperature.

Convection fan not running

Worn EvenAir convection fan motor or broken blade causes hot spots and uneven cooking results.

Door locked after self-clean

Door latch motor or lock switch fault leaves the oven door locked after a self-clean cycle completes.

Temperature sensor fault (F3)

Open or shorted oven temperature sensor sends incorrect readings — oven overheats, underheats or shuts down mid-cycle.

Control board F2 error

Oven temperature runaway fault — board detects overheating and shuts the oven down as a safety measure.

Interior light not working

Burned-out bulb or failed light socket board — makes monitoring food during baking impossible.